BM 4200 in netherlands

[tortap]

It was black back then. Not volvo gray.

Auto tilt will tilt up to level after you dump a bucket. Lift will auto lift to a set height leaving one hand free to operate tilt.

Tilt n lift auto works with an electro magnet on the end of the levers. When active power goes to the magnet and lever stick to it when fully engaged. So you need to pull tilt full up to activate. There is an inductive sensor on the loader frame somewhere and a rod that slides along the movement of the loader. If the sensor detect steel magnet is released I guess. Bracket B and D hold sensor and can be adjusted.

At least this is how I think it works. Not working on my 4300 at the moment:/

[Björn.O]

And does someone have pictures of the original interior of the door panels and the isolation foam in the cabin? After painting I would like to place the door panels and insulation foam, and want it to look original as much as possible.

You can see door panels and a lot of restoration work here in my BM 4500 thread:
BM 4500 bilder

[marve]

Have you checked in "Downloads" there are files about volvo bm including specifications on a 4300 1981
Volvo BM 4300 specifikationer
Google translate I'm really useless writing English

[Cruiser_79]

And does someone have pictures of the original interior of the door panels and the isolation foam in the cabin? After painting I would like to place the door panels and insulation foam, and want it to look original as much as possible.

You can see door panels and a lot of restoration work here in my BM 4500 thread:
BM 4500 bilder

Wow, that rebuild is amazing
I saw your door panels, is that plywood with some skai/leather on it or a foam mat? I can buy 12 or 24 mm insulation foam with skai siding on it (grey or black), but than I have to glue it between the door posts. It might be good for the back of the cabin and the roof.
Think I wait with the interior, first I will have to fix the hydraulic, air and other mechanical things

[Björn.O]

Yes that is 12 mm foam/skai mat, sprayglued to 4 mm plywood.
The first years of the 4000 serie loaders had grey interior and later it got black.

[MrKekko]

The right button I guess is the one that shuts off the gear when braking. And when you release the brake, the gear is engaged again.

[Cruiser_79]

started dismantling the loader frame. Pins and bushes on the cabin side are good, only on the coupler side they are bit worn out. The bottom holes in the loader frame at the coupler side are worn out as well, that's a real pity... I think I let the holes be machined, and place some bushes. Same for the end of the tilt cilinders, there is about 0.5 mm play on it. Otherwise I have to let them weld and machined afterwards, probably more expensive. And easier to fix when there are bushes in, just slam them out and put new in.
For replacing the cilinder seals I wanted to remove the entire cilinder, but the pins are different than I saw in the books. There isn't a plate on the outside to secure it, only the big 60 mm nut on the inside. How is this secured for turning, and how can I remove the pins, isn't it 'shrinked in' in the frame? Now we just let them on the frame and removed the piston with the cilinder mounted. There isn't play on it, I wanted to let them on.
Other issue is the roof, I removed the hatch but with removing the rubber the steel came loos as well Think I will spotweld some L-profiles on it slightly bigger, want to use the roof hatch as well.
I also discovered that it is equipped with two speed hydraulics or something like it, it's called Tilthastighet. I read the information in the manual but my swedish isn't improving very fast When the loader frame is back together I will try some things. Also have to find out where the sliding rod of the auto tylt funktion has to be mounted on the end of the cilinder. Someone has pics?

After cleaning some bad spots in the cabin showed up, but still I think the base is okay. Besides the bottom pin in the loader frame the pins and bushes aren't that bad and were greased well. For now it's more rust that need to be cleaned up. Maybe some more pics these days

[Cruiser_79]

This is how the roof looks like. I cut the hole slightly bigger and spotweld a L-shaped profile on it I think.


The holes on te end of the loader frame are worst, they are a bit oval. The previous owner changed the bushes a bit too late probably. Rest of the holes in the frame aren’t too bad, I think only 4 need to be cut out and get bushes.

Waiting for the moment to get outside again…

[Cruiser_79]

Lift and tilt cilinders have new seals, and the holes on the loader frame are machined on location. The other links were quite okay, and we changed the bronze bushings where possible. Only 2 links needed to be machined. Hopefully I can assemble the cilinders and links next week.



My brother's father in law started to weld a new knife on the hightip bucket

[Cruiser_79]

Finally a kind of update. Last months it was quite busy with selling the house, and at my brothers farm. Today I installed a new muffler and filled the hydraulics. Next week installing the loader arms again hopefully

The loader came with a high tip bucket and forks only. I need a kind of allround bucket for loading some gravel/sand and doing some small grading projects around the farm. In scandinavia it looks like every loader has a planeringsskopa for that kind of work. Over here there aren't buckets like that. Everybody uses skeleton buckets for levelling, and solid buckets with a short bottom for loading sand.
I was thinking of buying a planeringsskopa to use it around the farm, and with the extension kit to convert it into a volume bucket. Than I can weld some tubes at the sharp corners and use it for potatoes, carrots, grain, woodchips etc. Norje offered a N103 bucket, but they advised a 303 for my 4200, but it is almost twice as expensive. Is that necessary or will the lighter 103 last for the light duty jobs I want to do?

[tortap]

https://www.blocket.se/annons/varmland/ ... t/69118203

[Cruiser_79]

https://www.blocket.se/annons/varmland/thor_ns_i_kil_svensktillverkade_planeringsskopor_fri_frakt/69118203

Thanks, contacted them and they made me a good offer! They said they use hardox wear plates as well, and the price was good.
Yesterday I worked a little bit on the 4200 again. Making a new frame for the roof hatch, and replacing the links between valves and hand levers.
I removed some more plates and covers to start grinding. I'm not sure or I will spray paint the cabine and engine hood, or I use a roller. Spray paint looks much better, but it's more that I want to have it a fresh look and stop the rust. It doesn't need to be a showroom or museum loader.

[Cruiser_79]

Here some pics of the crispy hatch side of the cabin and the new frame. Have to cut the old crispy part away. And the new Olsson muffler.

[magloman]

Good job!

Maybe some local shop can build you a leveling bucket if you have blue prints?
The shipping should be awful expensive from Sweden.
We are several here who can draw in cad. We might be able to design one for you.

[Cruiser_79]

Good job!

Maybe some local shop can build you a leveling bucket if you have blue prints?
The shipping should be awful expensive from Sweden.
We are several here who can draw in cad. We might be able to design one for you.

Thanks for your advice! The price wasn't too bad in my opinion, but I think I inform at my brother in law his boss. He works as a truck driver and drive to Denmark a lot, and sometimes to sweden. I can ask what it cost for them to bring it when they drive back empty.

To be sure; I think I have an original Volvo quick coupler with a 50 mm pen in the bottom, 60 above and a center to center distance of 615 mm. Only thing what make me doubt is the distance between flanges; outer flange to outer flange is 88 cm, and that should be 96 cm I think? It will fit I guess but I just want to know what coupler I have before I order a bucket